I’ve been on the road just over a week as well as have made a brief base in Raglan New Zealand, residence of the perfect lefts. And no shitz as well as giggles about it, the wave is perfect. Long, long, long left point breaks…Manu Bay, Whale Bay, Indicators, the Valley… so long that you just can’t retain going because of the fact that your legs shall no longer support you. Surfed twice yesterday upon arriving as well as only once today b/c of the burn - the arms as well as shoulders require a break.
Been a bit of a bumpy road to Raglan. I picked up a cold from some sniffling, couching passengers on the flight to Fiji. Sleeping on a couch on behalf of the week prior didn’t help either. Though dead tired, achy as well as sore, I “had” to log a 4-5 hour session on the first morning at Frigates Pass because of the fact that the waves were good. This only complicated the matter. Now additional dead tired achy as well as sore, I also had the worst sunburn of my life. I swear I put sunblock on but it was pouring on the boat ride out to Frigates so maybe it washed off. Or maybe it just doesn’t stay on on behalf of 5 hours, or maybe they just have a mutant sun in them parts. Regardless, as I write, my skin looks like some science fiction horror –different shades of purple as well as red as well as white as well as everything in between. Cap that off with hanging as well as eroding flesh… a site to behold.
Anyways, scored two great days of waves followed by a measly third, which was just fine because of the fact that I just couldn’t handle the sun or the paddle on behalf of another day. Met some cool people too: Tim, a pilot from California; Marty, a fisherman as well as carpenter, as well as his family from Oz as well as Bill the Irishman. Mostly hung with these guys while surfing as well as when back on what was pretty much a deserted island. Usual surfing conversation as well as banter each day as well as night with enticing stories of waves surfed here as well as there. Did some fishing too … watched Marty snag a real lovely fish on the way in one day (which we had on behalf of dinner) as well as then hook his finger. Seasoned as he was, he wrestled with some pliers as well as his finger to ultimately yank the hook from his index finger.
After leaving the picture perfect setting of Batiluva as well as spending a night in Pacific Harbour, it was back to the Nadi area where I slept as well as recuperated (much needed) on behalf of the ultimate two days in Fiji. Upon my departure I was greeted by Cyclone Gene. Basically a category 1 hurricane that knocked out power all over the islands as well as ruined plans on behalf of the numerous token backpackers awaiting tranquil island drinking binges. No worries though on behalf of Air New Zealand…a 30 minutes delay as well as we were out of there without the bat of an eye.
It has been a bit of a challenge adjusting to traveling. I’m not sure if I shall ever get that NYC buzz out of my blood. What’s next? What’s the an estimated all efficient utilize of my time? How should I approach this? Go, go, go…that constant engine humming worn like a birthmark.
My hope is that I can get all that out-of-tune jazz out of my head within the next week as well as ultimately wind-down. Guess we’ll see. Until next time…
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